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almost 11 years ago, Maryam Momeni asked a question

Women dressed as men
There is a large number of photographs, from the late 19th-century into the early two decades of the 20th, of women that have marginal naming on photos saying "prostitutes". Others do not have that naming on the photos, but later cataloguers have named them thus. Among them are a considerable number of women dressed as men. Dressing up as young men was probably thought of as a point of attraction (not necessarily sexual availability) both to other men but also to women. Dressing up for photographs was very common in the period, including as European women and men. What was the grammar of dressing up as men in Qajar Iran?
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Azadeh Tajpour replied almost 11 years ago
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Mira Schwerda replied almost 11 years ago
Do we know who took the photographs? Or in which context they were distributed? It seems like this is not only about wearing men's clothes, but also about wearing Western style men's clothes. The group photograph with the two men, the dressed woman and the boy, almost looks like they are playing/imitating drunk/drinking Westerners. The photos make very different impressions. Some look like the woman enjoys playing this role (the Brooklyn photo even has a dandyesque feel to it with the cane and the hat), others give completely the opposite impression. For example the photo that is titled 'khanom', with the sad-looking person on it, which is also an exception to the Western clothing style of the others. It might just be this group of images, but it looks like group portraits dressed-up are much more common than portraits of a single person. I also wonder at what time some of these images were captioned as 'prostitutes', if this was still in the Qajar era or later, and in how far the original intention of taking the photo and the final use diverge from each other.
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Mira Schwerda replied almost 11 years ago
Here is a wonderful comparison to the Brooklyn-photo, which also shows, as Azadeh mentioned in class, that the clothing might not necessarily have to be regarded as Western (or not only), but also as upper class in this context: http://www.worldisround.com/articles/255726/photo130.html
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Afsaneh Najmabadi replied almost 11 years ago
what is interesting to think about is how each is named differently and has a different visual context. so the one Azadeh added is described as دسته ای از مطربها.
the other ones from top to bottom: دو زن روسپی -- پوشاک و آرایش آنها
 چهره و پوشاک دو زن روسپی و یک مرد
دختربچه های دربار ولیعهد
زنی با لباس مردانه در دوره قاجار -- و روی عکس نوشته خانم
 پیشخدمتهای ولیعهد با دختربچه های دربار موقع صرف نوشابه
By the way: I haven't seen the expression دختر بچه used in this sense until this late Qajar period; I suspect it was coined after the more common expressions, such as غلام بچه; if that proves to be the case, then presumably the dressing up was a mimicry of the same position and the presumption of particular figures of desirability.
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Maryam Momeni replied almost 11 years ago
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Mira Schwerda replied almost 11 years ago
There is also this photo, which is in the collection of the Brooklyn Museum: http://www.brooklynmuseum.org/opencollection/objects/161460/Looks_Like_a_Girl!_Mohterem___One_of_274_Vintage_Photographs/set/?referring-q=qajar+drag+Leona+Soudavar+in+memory+of+Ahmad+Soudavar
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Azadeh Tajpour replied almost 11 years ago
http://www.qajarwomen.org/en/items/1261A113.html
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Maryam Momeni replied almost 11 years ago
I found this photograph on a weblog. This is taken in Budapest around 1920 and although it's not depicting Iranians, but the same cross dressing can be seen here. http://lildormy.tumblr.com/post/60620616130/vintagegal-wedding-photo-budapest-c-1920

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